minim3 wrote:
> I tottaly agree that the CWB is marvelous (thats what its suppouse to
> be there for) but i dont want to CWB on each shootings i do,i rather
> relay on the auto WB adjusted...but now ipve found out that HU
> respects the adjustments on RAW files,ACR wont.

I use a CWB but I do NOT set it for each shot. I completely disagree with taking a a CWB on each shot since it takes out all the colour of the ambient light. As Puddleduck says, it is useless at golden hour. I also would never use AWB, for the same reason.

This is what I do and I suggest you try it.

Wait for a cloudy overcast day. You want a bright but cloudy sky. There must be no blue sky. The sun must not be visible. But it should not be about to rain.

Take a CWB outside on that cloudy day, using a Kodak grey card. Store that CWB in one of your CUS settings. Then use that stored CWB for all your outdoor shooting and for flash too.

It will allow you to capture the ambient light rather than neutralise it. It is great for the "golden hour". It becomes like a preset balance but it is better than any of the manufacturer presets. It is better than AWB and it is better than taking a new CWB for each shot.

I go into a lot of WB theory here:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1020&message=19298294

There are examples there to show just how cold AWB looks when used in warm light. My preset stored CWB is demonstrated there too, along with effects of using Kodak cards and different sorts of paper.

>
> Tu do a CWB are you suppouse to have a neutral grey card (18%) or
> just a white paper?
>
> Im asking this because i have not tried it on the FUji,but on other
> DSLR and they worked fine with a white sheet....

The answer is - use whatever gives you the CWB that you like best.

Kodak grey card is neutral. White paper usually is not neutral. Different white papers, such as photocopy papers, printing papers, art papers, writing papers, they all have a different tint.

When you take a CWB, the camera makes an adjustment curve to oppose the colour of the light scattered off the paper. If the paper has a yellow tint, the WB will be a bit more blue than you would get from a Kodak card. If the paper has a blue tint, the WB will be more yellow. All white paper has a tint, even if it looks white to you. The tint that the paper adds to the WB may be desirable or not.

It also does not matter whether a neutral card is white or grey. All that matters is whether or not it is neutral. And if it is not neutral, all that matters is its tint, not its brightness.

The method I have described creates a CWB that is neutral in neutral light at roughly 6000 to 6500K (which is what a bright cloudy overcast sky gives you). Such a stored CWB allows the rendering of warmer light (say at 5000K) that preserves the warmth of the light instead of making it look cold.

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