(I'm reposting the test because the original one has been corrupt)

*What about the fuzzy corners and purple fringing issues?*

I have tested a "leaves scene" at all the focal lentghs (as much as zoom precision permits it). In my sample, the lens has a faulty right side at wide angle, softness extends quite a lot into the frame.I found out that the image gets evenly and acceptably sharp at 7.8 mm, and it stays so until the end of the zoom at 270 mm.It even has got better edges than my trusty TZ4 at certain focal lentghs.7.8 mm is the equivalent of 42 mm on a full frame. This is absolutely a telephoto camera, and it's the perfect complement to the LX3 range.
There is no indication of the focal lentgh neither in record or playback displays of the camera.I estimate it approximately at a quarter of the scale.
Fortunately, the bad reported purple fringing, improves a lot from 7.8 mm on as shown in the examples below.

5mm right lower corner, fuzzy
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2655/4018827379_3018bc967d_o.jpg

7.8mm right lower corner, acceptable
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2541/4018830415_991f0170ea_o.jpg

5MM upper left corner, some fringing
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2509/4018828101_0388e08d38_o.jpg

7.8mm upper left corner, barely some fringing
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3526/4019592786_15702da017_o.jpg


*how many additional stops does the stabilization allow to have steady shots?*

Don't trust the camera double stabilization feature, it tends to boost ISO unnecessarily to get sharp shots. In my experience, stabilization works better at wide angle, but it's not useless in the telephoto range.

At 40mm, I get regularly sharp shots at 1/10 s, and a few acceptable 1/8S.(useful rock hard 2 stops of improvement, you can rely on)
At mid-range, I always force the camera to be at least at 1/25 s
At the telephoto end of the zoom, you have to be at least at 1/60 to get a high percentage of keepers, but I have quite a lot of 1/25 s sharp shots with some good handling technic, and with the use of the 2s self-timer.

*Show me a scene where the DR mode permits to recover regular cameras' blown sky.*

The DR feature (the hardware-based one at 5 MP, not the software-based one at 10 MP) is absolutely impressive. it can give in my experience approximately 3 stops of additional EV.

TZ4
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3531/4019573012_ce6b6ac461.jpg

F70exr, DR mode, DR800%
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3527/4019573574_b56d9117da.jpg

In fact, the DR800% is hardaware and software based, and pushes the ISO awkwardly all the time to ISO200 (even in dim low-light scenes, hello shaky hands!).And the more you increase DR, the flatter images become, which could be bothering in some situations. This is why I prefer auto DR, which always chooses gracefully the right setting.
The camera DR feature gives priority to highlights, which, in very contrasty situations can result in quite blocked shadows. In my experience, you can push exposure compensation to +2/3 EV without losing any highlight detail in Jpeg. This results in HDR-like photoes; absolutely phenomenal!

Auto DR, no EV compensation
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2663/4019603302_e7c691d046.jpg

Auto DR, + 2/3 EV
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2559/4019603950_78debf2550.jpg

This is really the feature that makes the camera, and other EXR-based Fuji, stand from competition. The DR mode gives well exposed images, and offers the camera the luxury of being a little hot on exposure, which results in clear shots with nice tones and clean shadows. (the hot exposure metering can result in burnt highlights in the other modes, but fits very well DR mode).

LX3, contrasty scene
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2740/4018844015_6121a5de6e.jpg

F70exr, DR auto
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2663/4019604820_81eb2b7aca.jpg
--
Photography has to remain a pleasure, keep PP minimal!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/altruisto/
owning a Nikon D90, Canon S5IS, Panasonic LX3 and TZ4 and Fuji F70exr